You have guests arriving in two hours, and the outdoor heater that worked perfectly last month is producing nothing, or barely anything, or making a noise it was not making before. This is a more common situation than it should be, and in the majority of cases the problem is straightforward and fixable without a technician.
This guide covers the most common reasons an outdoor heater stops performing, how to diagnose which problem you have, and what to do about it before you need the heater to actually work.
Before You Start
Work through each section methodically. Most outdoor heater failures trace back to a power supply issue, a dirty element, a low gas bottle, or a thermocouple that simply needs more time to heat up, none of which require a technician. The checklist below helps you rule out the simple causes before moving further.
Quick Insights: Outdoor Heater Troubleshooting
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Check power first: For electric outdoor heaters, start with the circuit breaker, safety switch, power outlet, remote batteries, and thermal cutout before assuming the heater has failed.
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Low heat can have simple causes: Dirty heating elements, damaged reflectors, voltage drop, wind, cold temperatures, incorrect mounting height, or an undersized heater can all reduce heating performance.
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Gas heater problems often involve fuel or ignition: Check the LPG supply, regulator, burner, igniter, and pilot light. A pilot that will not stay lit may indicate a thermocouple problem requiring a licensed gas fitter.
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Regular maintenance prevents common failures: Clean electric heating elements and reflectors, inspect mounting hardware and IP-rated seals, check gas hoses and burners, and replace remote batteries before the heating season.
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Know when to stop troubleshooting: Repeated breaker trips, damaged wiring, unusual smells, suspected water ingress, gas leaks, or gas-system repairs require a qualified electrician or licensed gas fitter. Outdoor gas heaters should only be used in well-ventilated outdoor areas and never indoors or in enclosed spaces.
Electric Outdoor Heaters: What Goes Wrong and Why
Electric radiant heaters for outdoor use are mechanically simple. There are no moving parts beyond a remote control receiver and possibly a thermostat, which means the failure points are limited and usually identifiable without specialist knowledge.
No Heat at All
If the heater is not producing any heat and shows no signs of operation, work through this sequence before assuming a fault with the heater itself.
Power Supply
Outdoor heaters are frequently on a dedicated circuit or a circuit shared with other outdoor equipment. Check the switchboard for a tripped breaker or a blown fuse before touching the heater.
Power Outlet
If the heater plugs into an outdoor GPO, test the outlet with another device. Outdoor GPOs in Australian homes are often on safety switches that can trip without triggering the main breaker.
Remote Control Batteries
A heater that powers on from the wall switch but does not respond to remote control has a remote problem, not a heater problem.
Thermal Cutout
Most electric outdoor heaters include a thermal safety cutout that trips if the unit overheats, triggered by an enclosed space, insufficient clearance above, or debris on the element.
Reduced Heat Output
A heater that turns on but produces noticeably less warmth than it used to is a more subtle problem and can have several causes.
Dirty or Degraded Element
Outdoor heaters accumulate dust, insect debris, and environmental contamination on the heating element and reflector over time. A contaminated reflector distributes heat less efficiently, and a contaminated element may produce less infrared output at the same wattage.
Damaged Reflector
The reflector behind the heating element directs radiant heat toward occupants rather than allowing it to disperse. A reflector knocked, corroded, or warped through thermal cycling reduces efficiency significantly.
Element Degradation
Infrared heating elements have a service life. Over several years of regular use, the element produces progressively less output at the same wattage, a gradual process more noticeable in heaters that have been in service for three or more years.
Voltage Drop
Heaters drawing high current on long cable runs from the switchboard can experience voltage drop that reduces effective output. If the heater is at the far end of a long extension cord, this is a likely contributor.
Heater Works But Feels Less Effective Than Usual
This Is Often Not a Heater Problem
Radiant heater effectiveness is heavily influenced by conditions rather than just wattage output. Wind is the primary variable, even a light breeze of 2–3 km/h significantly reduces effective warmth by carrying away heat from the surfaces and people it has warmed. Ambient temperature also matters: the same heater running at the same output in 5°C conditions feels less effective than at 10°C, because the body is losing heat faster to the surrounding environment. Neither of these is a heater fault.
Bonus Tips for Gas Outdoor Heaters Users
Gas patio heaters introduce fuel management variables that electric heaters do not have, and most gas heater problems trace back to one of the following causes.
Pilot Light Won't Stay Lit
The pilot light that lights but immediately extinguishes when the button is released indicates a problem with the thermocouple, the safety device that detects the pilot flame and allows gas to flow to the main burner.
Before assuming failure, check that you are holding the ignition button down long enough. The thermocouple requires up to 30 seconds to heat sufficiently. Many people release too early.
Low or Uneven Flame
A smaller or less even flame than normal is typically a fuel supply problem. Check the LPG bottle level, a standard 9 kg bottle weighs approximately 9 kg full and about 4 kg when empty. Also check the regulator: a failed or partially blocked regulator produces reduced flow and should be replaced every 5–10 years.
Debris in the Burner
Insects, particularly spiders, frequently nest in the burner assembly of gas heaters during storage. A partial blockage produces an uneven or reduced flame.
No Ignition Spark
A heater that clicks but does not spark, or sparks away from the correct ignition point, has either a dirty or misaligned igniter electrode. Oxidation on the electrode tip prevents proper spark generation.
Maintenance That Prevents Most Problems
The majority of outdoor heater problems are preventable with routine maintenance. The best time for this is early autumn, before the heating season begins, rather than mid-winter when the heater has stopped working with guests on their way.
Electric Outdoor Heater Maintenance
Annual Maintenance Checklist: Electric Heaters
- Clean the element and reflector: With power disconnected at the switchboard, use a soft dry cloth or compressed air to remove dust and debris from the element. Clean the reflector with a cloth dampened with mild cleaner and dry thoroughly. Do not use abrasive materials on the reflector surface.
- Inspect IP-rated seals: The IP rating of an outdoor heater depends on seal integrity. Inspect annually for cracking, compression set, or damage and replace seals no longer forming an effective barrier.
- Check mounting hardware: Ceiling and wall-mounted heaters experience vibration from thermal cycling that can loosen mounting screws. Inspect and tighten all fixings annually.
- Test remote control and timer: Replace remote batteries annually regardless of apparent function. A weak battery that still operates at close range may fail at normal operating distances.
- Check clearances: Verify that nothing has been installed or stored above the heater that reduces the minimum clearance required for safe operation.
Storage
If the heater is removed for storage during warmer months, clean it before storage rather than before reinstallation. A heater stored clean is a heater ready to use immediately when the weather turns. Store in a dry location protected from dust and pest access.
Gas Storage Safety
For gas heaters, remove the LPG bottle before storage and store the bottle in a ventilated outdoor location away from ignition sources. Never store an LPG bottle indoors. This applies to garages, garden sheds with poor ventilation, and any enclosed internal space.
Electric vs Gas Outdoor Heaters: Key Differences at a Glance
| Feature | Electric Radiant | Gas (LPG) Patio |
|---|---|---|
| Failure points | Element, reflector, thermal cutout, power supply | Thermocouple, regulator, igniter, burner blockage, gas supply |
| Most common quick fix | Reset safety switch or thermal cutout; clean element | Hold ignition longer; check LPG bottle level |
| DIY-friendly diagnosis | Yes, limited failure points | Partially, fuel and igniter checks are DIY; gas system repairs require a licensed fitter |
| Annual maintenance time | 30-45 minutes | 45-60 minutes |
| When to call a professional | Repeated tripped breaker; wiring damage; element replacement | Any thermocouple, regulator, or gas connection work |
| Running cost variable | Electricity tariff and voltage drop on long runs | LPG bottle price; regulator and hose replacement interval |
| Effectiveness in wind | Reduced; radiant heat dissipates in moving air | Reduced; flame output and heat distribution both affected |
When to Call a Professional
Some problems require professional attention rather than DIY resolution. Using the wrong approach on a gas or electrical fault creates risk well beyond a heater that doesn't work.
⚡ Call a Licensed Electrician
- A circuit breaker trips repeatedly when the heater is connected
- Visible damage to wiring or the heater housing
- The heater produces sparks or unusual smells
- Any water ingress into the electrical components is suspected
- Element replacement is required
🔥 Call a Licensed Gas Fitter
- Thermocouple replacement does not resolve the pilot light problem
- Any smell of gas around the heater or connections
- The regulator needs replacement
- Any modification to the gas supply is required
Need Parts, Advice, or a Replacement Heater?
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Frequently Asked Questions
The most likely causes are a tripped thermal safety cutout, a dirty or degraded heating element, or a damaged reflector. Allow the unit to cool completely and attempt a reset first. If the problem persists, inspect the element and reflector for visible contamination or damage. A unit that resets and then trips again quickly indicates a ventilation or clearance problem at the installation rather than a fault with the heater itself. Check that nothing above the heater has reduced its required clearance.
The pilot light extinguishing immediately after the button is released almost always indicates either that the ignition button was not held down long enough or that the thermocouple has failed. The thermocouple requires up to 30 seconds to heat sufficiently to signal that the flame is established. Hold the button down for the full 30 seconds after lighting before releasing. If the flame still extinguishes after a full hold, the thermocouple needs replacement by a licensed gas fitter.
An annual maintenance check before the heating season covers the majority of preventable problems. For electric heaters, this includes cleaning the element and reflector, inspecting mounting hardware, checking IP seals, and replacing remote batteries. Gas heaters additionally require burner inspection, regulator checks, and pilot assembly cleaning on the same annual schedule. Completing this in early autumn means the heater is ready for immediate use when the weather turns.
Outdoor heaters drawing 1800 to 2000 watts should be on a fixed, correctly rated circuit rather than an extension cord. An undersized extension cord creates resistance that reduces effective voltage at the heater, lowering output and potentially creating a fire risk if the cord is not rated for the current draw. If a permanent installation is not possible, use only a heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension cord rated for the heater's full wattage, and keep it as short as practical.
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